Crispy, crunchy, melty, yum: Johnny's Pizzeria

I met up with a new friend for dinner this week after teaching my class, which ends at 7. By the time I got back to Westchester it was after 8, pretty late for us suburban types -- we were both starving by the time we got to Johnny's Pizzeria in Mount Vernon. But the late hour helped us out. The place is usually so packed at dinnertime you have to stand in line outside, but at 8:30, it's almost empty. No waiting for us.

The back dining room was closed for the night, so we took a roomy four-top up front, within view of the ovens. Cold root beer in a can, with a straw, for each of us. It took only about 15 or 20 minutes for the pie to appear, and when it did ... bliss. A thin, blistery crust, charred and dusty, topped with melty mozzarella and slices of sausage. Just enough sausage, and not too much, my friend noted approvingly. He's a lifelong New Yorker, so the man knows his pizza.

The tomato sauce at Johnny's is the tiniest bit too mild for me, even with sausage on top, so I found myself adding a sprinkle of salt to each slice. Still, I was very happy. We ate and chatted our way through three crisp slices each, then talked some more -- and found ourselves eyeing the last two pieces. "One more slice. You can do it," I said, teasing. He grinned. "You know, I think I could." I checked in with my tummy. "You know what? Me too."

We left a clean table and two empty root beer cans, very satisfied customers. Take that, city pizza.

Johnny's Pizzeria
30 W. Lincoln Ave.
Mount Vernon, NY